Casa do Fado (Lisbon, Portugal)

西元二OOO年秋末，正式搬到歐洲沒多久，對義大利還處於人生地不熟的狀況中，不適應沒有手帕交可以八卦談心的生活，所以便毅然決定隻身到葡萄牙拜訪在倫敦留學那年的知己 – 安娜，散心、旅遊、回憶過往。
End of autumn in 2000, not too long after I moved to Europe, I was a bit depressed for my life in Italy for the reason that I've got no bosom friends around and there's no one to talk to. I decided to take a short trip to Portugal and visit my best friend Ana, whom I met when I studied in London.

到了里斯本，除了當個典型的觀光客以外，也免不了在各大小博物館之間穿梭漫遊。某天晚上跟安娜聊到音樂對於情感的抒發、表達，在她的推薦下，便決定隔天到著名的法朵博物館拜訪一番。
After arriving Lisbon, I enjoyed myself as a typical tourist. Apart from that, I also spent some time visitings various museums in town. One night, Ana and I talked about traditional music. Following her suggestion, I decided to take a look of the famous Fado museum in the next day.

法朵博物館（Casa do Fado）是一座專題的小型博物館，館內設有一個小而美的常態展示，介紹法朵之歌的發源、歷史、樂器與著名歌手。展示企圖透過音樂的層面，讓參觀者更進一步地了解葡萄牙的文化與歷史，以文字說明、影片、音樂片段、相關文物呈現出法朵的美。
Casa do Fado is a small museum with a very special theme. There is a well organized permanent exhibition, introducing the origin, history, instruments, and famous singers of this traditional music of Portugal. It is an effort to lead the visitors to a deeper understanding of Portuguese culture and history, showing the beauty of Fado through texts, short films, music passages, andrelated artefacts.

對我來說，法朵之於葡萄牙，就如同佛朗明歌之於西班牙一樣。Fado在葡萄牙文中，是「命運」的意思。過去的法朵大多吟唱著民間生活的困苦，現在則不再侷限於悲傷哀愁的主題，也開始出現帶著詼諧的輕快調子。從前的葡萄牙有著一段輝煌的航海歷史，由於開拓海外之故，許多人上船成了水手出航冒險，然而由於當時地理常識的欠缺，水手們出海以後也不確定回不回得來，也不太清楚要到什麼地方去，因此臨走之前跟家人生離死別，吟唱的曲調漸漸就成了法朵；而到了巴西，則成了水手們抒發鄉愁緬懷故土的表達方式。
For me, Fado to Portugal is like Flamenco to Spain. In the Porguguese language, "fado" means fate. In the past, fado sang the difficulties of life. Nowadays, it's not any more limited to the nostalgic or sad songs. Some pleasant and fast tunes start to appear. Portugal got a splendid history for its strong naval power. To expand their territory, many sailors sent on board for adventures. Lacking in geographical knowledge, sailors did not really understand where they were going, and were not sure if they would ever go home again. Before they departed, songs were sung to express these painful departures. These tunes gradually turned into fado. When fado arrived Brasil, it became a way to express nostalgic feelings and remembrance for sailors.

整個展示中最吸引我的地方，是展示末的造景。進入這個房間之中，就如同置身於一間小酒館一般，找張椅子坐下，在微暗的燈光下聆賞法朵、觀賞影片。在音樂片段銜接的空檔之間，我的眼睛也沒閒著，眼光隨著沿著房間內三面牆上此起彼落的緩和燈光，觀賞著各種專題展示。那是個遊客極少的下午，全館只有我一個參觀者，也正是這種孤獨寂靜的氣氛，讓我更容易進入法朵的情緒之中，整個人陷入一片鄉愁而無法自拔。
The most appealing part of all is the diorama at the end of the exhibition. Entering this tiny small room, I found myself in a tavern. All by myself, I found a seat, enjoying fado music and films in the dark. During the "break", my eyes were following the spotlights, browsing through every single themed exhibits on the three walls. It was a quiet afternoon. I was the only visitor. This quiet and lonely atmosphere led me into fado. I was flooded with nostalgia, feeling lost.

里斯本的阿爾法瑪（Alfama）地區處處都有這種法朵之家，它可以是餐廳或酒吧，人們在晚餐時間到這些法朵之家或用餐或小酌，順便享受著歌手樂手的演出。伴著兩把西班牙吉他與一把葡萄牙吉他（葡萄牙吉他起源於英格蘭，是一種狀似琵琶的十二弦樂器），歌手悠悠地唱出法朵的曲調。現在的法朵，就如同流行音樂一般，把各種主題都唱了進去，當然，絕大部分有關於愛情。
In Alfama area of Lisbon, many fado taverns and pubs can be found. People go to these places for dinner or a drink while enjoying the performances. Accompanied by two Spanish guitars and a Portuguese guitar, the singers slowly sing the tunes of fado. In modern Potrugal, fado is like pop music. Various things can be expressed through fado. Of course, most of them are love songs.

法朵歌手中最著名者，莫過於艾瑪莉亞（Amalia Rodrigues）。她廣受觀眾所喜愛，將法多帶到世界各角落，她一生的成就成為葡萄牙的傳奇，是到目前為止最偉大的法朵歌手。也許是當時受到情緒所挑撥，當天晚上就央著安娜帶我去買了艾瑪莉亞的CD。她所吟唱的故事與語言也許離我很遠，不過透過音樂所傳達出來的，卻正呼應了我身處異鄉的淡淡鄉愁。
Amalia Rodrigues is the most famous fado singer ever. She brought fado to every corner of the world and is much loved by her people. She became a legend in Portugal and is the greated fado singer. Probably I was too much moved by the fado tunes, I asked Ana to take me to a place to buy Amalia's CD. What stories she's singing in her songs or the language itself were probably too far from me, but what was expressed through her music reflected my nostalgic feeling.